Most Carriacou stays begin the same way: a boat crossing from St George's or a short flight in a small plane, followed by a few minutes of working out how to reach the room. On an island with no airport taxi rank to speak of, few cruising cabs and buses that thin out by evening, those first minutes can either run smoothly or turn into a long wait on the dock. A small amount of planning makes all the difference.
This guide follows the arrival day from the moment you land: getting from Tyrrel Bay or Lauriston Airport to your accommodation, sorting cash and a phone connection, buying the first groceries and planning a first evening that does not involve wandering dark roads in search of dinner. It applies whether you are staying in a guesthouse in Hillsborough, an apartment near Paradise Beach or a villa in the hills.
Where you will actually arrive
Visitors reach Carriacou by sea or air. The fast Osprey ferry and the slower cargo-passenger boats run from the Carenage in St George's. Since Hurricane Beryl, Grenada ferries have been docking at Tyrrel Bay on the south-west coast rather than at the old jetty in Hillsborough. Check the current arrangement with the operator, because it determines your onward journey: Tyrrel Bay is a short drive from L'Esterre and Harvey Vale, and somewhat further from Hillsborough and the north.
Flights land at Lauriston Airport, a small airstrip on the south-western side of the island between Hillsborough and L'Esterre. It is close to most accommodation, but facilities are minimal, and taxis meet flights rather than waiting all day.
Arrival times matter. Late-afternoon ferries and evening arrivals leave little daylight for finding a property, especially one up a hillside track. If you can choose, aim to arrive with a few hours of daylight left. Darkness falls around 6 to 6.30 pm throughout the year.
From dock or airstrip to your door
These steps make the transfer straightforward, wherever you are staying.
- Before travelling, ask your host to book a taxi to meet you, or to collect you themselves. Many do, and it is the simplest option.
- Confirm the fare and the currency in advance. Taxi fares on Carriacou are usually modest for the short distances involved, but agreeing first avoids confusion.
- Share your ferry or flight details with the driver and host, and let them know if you are delayed.
- If arriving without a booked taxi in daylight, ask at the dock or airport; drivers often meet boats and flights, and minibuses pass on the main road.
- If taking a minibus, travel light. Buses are fine with a small bag but awkward with large suitcases.
- Save your accommodation's exact location on your phone before leaving Grenada, and note a landmark, since street addresses are not commonly used.
- Keep a little EC cash in small notes accessible for the fare and a tip.
Luggage, the small plane and the boat
How you pack shapes how easy arrival will be. Small aircraft to Lauriston have strict weight limits for checked and hand luggage, often well below international allowances, and bags may be weighed along with passengers. Anything over the limit may follow on a later flight. If you are bringing groceries, diving gear or a long-stay quantity of clothes, the ferry is the more forgiving option.
On the ferry, large bags are usually stowed together and handed off at the dock, so label them clearly and keep valuables, medicines, documents and a change of clothes in a small bag with you. Crossings can be rough and spray reaches open decks, so a waterproof cover or dry bag for electronics is worth having. On arrival, wait until the luggage is unloaded rather than leaving the dock in a hurry, and check you have everything before the taxi drives away. Soft bags are easier than rigid cases to load into the boot of a small taxi or onto a minibus.
Cash, cards and phones
Cash first. Bring EC dollars from Grenada, where cash machines are more numerous. Hillsborough has banks with ATMs, but machines can occasionally be offline or run low, especially on busy weekends. US dollars are often accepted, but change is usually given in EC dollars at around EC$2.70 to US$1.
Cards. Some hotels, larger shops and restaurants accept cards, but many guesthouses, taxis, buses, vendors and small shops do not. Check your accommodation's payment methods in advance.
Mobile service. The main networks in Grenada, Digicel and Flow, also cover Carriacou. A local SIM or eSIM is useful for calling hosts and taxis, and is easiest to buy on Grenada before crossing, although top-ups are sold widely on Carriacou.
Wi-Fi. Most accommodation offers Wi-Fi, but speeds vary. If you need a reliable connection, ask the host in advance.
Messaging. Messaging apps are widely used by hosts, drivers and small businesses on the island, and are often the easiest way to keep in touch.
Groceries and the first evening
On arrival day, the main risk is hunger. Restaurants on Carriacou are relatively few, some close early or on certain days, and finding one open late in the evening is not guaranteed. If you arrive late, ask your host whether they can prepare a simple meal or leave a few basics, such as bread, eggs, fruit, water and coffee, and settle up on arrival. Many are glad to help when asked in advance.
If you arrive with time to spare and are staying in a self-catering apartment or villa, ask your taxi driver to stop at a supermarket in Hillsborough on the way, or buy basics on Grenada before the crossing. Remember that shops may close early on Saturdays and keep short hours or close on Sundays, so a Sunday arrival needs particular planning.
For the first evening, choose something simple and close: a meal at your guesthouse, a restaurant within a short walk or a pre-booked taxi to a nearby place. Save exploring until daylight, when you can see the roads and the island properly.
Getting your bearings on day one
On the first morning, take time to understand how the island works. Ask your host where the nearest bus stop is and roughly how often buses pass, which restaurants are open on which days, where the nearest shop and beach are, and which drivers they recommend. Note the contact details of a couple of taxi drivers for later.
Ask about water and power too: how the cistern works, whether the pump needs switching on, whether drinking water is filtered, and what to do during a power cut. Find the torch, check the mosquito screens and nets, and confirm checkout arrangements and the time of your departing boat or flight.
A walk around Hillsborough, a first swim at Paradise Beach or a drink overlooking Tyrrel Bay helps you get oriented. Carriacou is small, and within a day or two most visitors feel at home. Saying good morning to people you pass is normal and expected, and it opens many conversations.
Arrival-day mistakes to avoid
Nearly every difficult arrival story on Carriacou traces back to one of a handful of assumptions. None is serious on its own, but two or three together can turn a short transfer into a long, hungry evening. These are the ones to guard against, and each is easy to prevent with a message or two before you travel.
- Assuming the ferry still docks in Hillsborough and making plans on that basis.
- Arriving after dark without a booked taxi or clear directions to the property.
- Bringing no EC cash and relying on finding a working ATM straight away.
- Packing heavy suitcases for a small plane with strict baggage limits.
- Arriving on a Sunday with no food and no plan for dinner.
- Booking the last ferry of the day without a back-up plan if it is cancelled or full.
- Using pre-hurricane directions or landmarks that may no longer exist; ask the host for current directions.
Frequently asked questions
Where does the ferry from Grenada arrive on Carriacou?
Since Hurricane Beryl, ferries from St George's have docked at Tyrrel Bay on Carriacou's south-west coast rather than the Hillsborough jetty. Arrangements may change, so confirm with the operator and arrange onward transport accordingly.
Are there taxis at Lauriston Airport?
Taxis usually meet scheduled flights, but there is no large rank waiting all day. Ask your host to book a driver for your arrival, particularly for later flights, and confirm the fare in advance.
Is there an ATM on Carriacou?
Yes, Hillsborough has banks with ATMs, but machines can occasionally be offline or run low. Bring enough EC dollars from Grenada to cover the first few days, including taxis and small purchases.
Can a Grenada SIM card be used on Carriacou?
Yes. Digicel and Flow, the main mobile networks in Grenada, also cover Carriacou. Buying a SIM or eSIM on Grenada before crossing is easiest, and top-ups are widely sold on Carriacou.
What if the ferry arrives late in the evening?
Book a taxi in advance and share your sailing details with the driver and host. Ask the host to leave basic food if restaurants may be closed, and save the property's location on your phone before travelling.
