Renting an apartment or villa on Carriacou usually means cooking at least some of your own meals. That is partly necessity: the island has a modest number of restaurants, some close early or on certain days, and after Hurricane Beryl several have taken time to reopen. It is also one of the pleasures of a stay. Buying fish straight from the boat, picking up mangoes from a roadside table and cooking on a veranda overlooking the bay are as much a part of Carriacou as the beaches.
Self-catering on a small island works differently from at home, though. Supplies arrive by boat from Grenada, choice is narrower, prices for imported goods are higher, and the water in the taps comes from a cistern that has to last. This guide explains how to shop, what to bring, how to make water and gas last, and the small habits that make a rental kitchen work well.
Where to shop: Hillsborough first
Hillsborough is the island's shopping centre. Its supermarkets and grocery shops stock the essentials: rice, flour, pasta, tinned goods, cooking oil, coffee, dairy, frozen meat and chicken, bread, drinks and household items. Choice is narrower than in the larger supermarkets around Grand Anse on Grenada, and particular brands come and go depending on the last shipment. If something you like appears on the shelf, buy enough for the stay.
Village shops across the island carry basics such as bread, eggs, tinned food, drinks and phone credit, which is handy if you are staying in L'Esterre, Harvey Vale, Windward or the hills. Bakeries sell fresh bread and local favourites such as coconut drops and sweet bread, usually best early in the day.
A practical approach is to do one larger shop in Hillsborough at the start of the stay, then top up with fresh produce, fish and bread as you go. Shops are generally closed or keep short hours on Sundays and public holidays, so stock up on Saturday. Carry cash in EC dollars, since not every shop accepts cards and a cash machine may occasionally be offline.
Fish, produce and local food
Fresh fish. Fishing is part of daily life, and fish is often sold directly from boats or at the waterfront when the catch comes in, in Hillsborough, Windward and other coastal villages. What is available depends on the day and season, and may include tuna, mahi-mahi, snapper, jacks or other reef and pelagic fish. Ask your host who sells and when.
Fruit and vegetables. Roadside vendors and small stalls sell local produce in season: mangoes, bananas, plantains, pawpaw, limes, peppers, pumpkin, cucumbers, sorrel around Christmas and more. Carriacou is drier than Grenada, so some produce comes over from the main island.
Ground provisions. Sweet potatoes, yams, dasheen and breadfruit are staples, and cook well on a simple stove. Many hosts are happy to explain how to prepare them.
Local dishes to try. Carriacou is known for dishes such as pigeon peas and rice, and cook-up style one-pot meals. Grenada's national dish, oil down, is made on all three islands. Ask whether anyone nearby sells home-cooked meals; some families cook to order.
Local drinks. Jack Iron, the high-strength white rum associated with Carriacou, is sold widely. Treat it with respect. Fresh coconut water is available from vendors in many places.
What to bring from Grenada or home
Because supplies are narrower on Carriacou, a few things are worth bringing, either from home or from a larger supermarket on Grenada before taking the ferry.
- Particular dietary items: gluten-free products, plant milks, specific baby foods or anything you cannot do without.
- Any medicines you rely on, plus a basic first-aid kit, insect repellent and sunscreen.
- Good coffee or tea if you are particular, and favourite spices or condiments.
- A sharp knife and a small chopping board if you cook seriously; rental kitchens vary.
- Reusable shopping bags, since single-use plastic carrier bags are banned in Grenada.
- A reusable water bottle and, if your rental lacks filtered water, a filter bottle.
- A cool bag for carrying fish and frozen food from town in the heat.
- Remember that baggage limits on small aircraft to Lauriston are strict, so heavy groceries are easier to bring by ferry.
Water: living with a cistern
Most homes and rentals on Carriacou rely on rainwater collected from the roof and stored in a cistern, sometimes supplemented by a piped supply or water deliveries. The island has no permanent rivers, and the dry season, roughly January to May, can be long. A cistern that seems full on arrival has to serve every guest until the next rain, and refilling by truck costs the owner money and is not always available quickly.
Ask on arrival how the water works: where the cistern is, whether the pump needs switching on, and whether the water is filtered for drinking or only for washing. Many rentals provide filtered or bottled drinking water, while some recommend boiling or filtering tap water. Follow the host's advice.
Simple habits make a real difference: short showers, turning off the tap while washing up or brushing teeth, full loads in the washing machine, and reporting leaks or running toilets straight away. Rinsing off sand outside with a bucket rather than under a running shower saves a surprising amount. In a drought, the host may ask guests to cut back further, and it is reasonable to do so.
The rental kitchen: gas, power and equipment
Many rental kitchens on Carriacou cook with bottled gas. Ask how to light the stove and oven safely, how much gas is left and how a refill is arranged if it runs out. Electric appliances such as kettles, microwaves and toasters are common, but power cuts can happen, so keep a torch handy and avoid opening the fridge or freezer more than necessary during an outage.
Equipment varies widely. Some villas have well-equipped kitchens with blenders and plenty of pans; some apartments have a two-ring stove and a few basic utensils. Before booking, ask for a list or photographs of the kitchen if cooking matters to you. Check the fridge works properly and keep fish and meat cold, since heat spoils food quickly.
Rubbish needs care. Keep food waste sealed to avoid ants, take bins out as the host advises, and ask about bottle returns or recycling where available. Leaving the kitchen clean and the bins emptied on departure is appreciated, particularly where the owner does the changeover themselves.
Mixing cooking with eating out
Few visitors want to cook every meal on holiday, and on Carriacou you do not have to. A good rhythm is breakfast and simple lunches at the rental, with dinners out a few times a week at the restaurants in Hillsborough, around Tyrrel Bay or at the beach bars near Paradise Beach. Ask your host which places are open on which nights, as hours vary and some close for part of the low season.
Some hosts or neighbours offer home-cooked meals on request, which can be among the best food of the trip. Ordering a dinner of fresh fish, rice and peas and local vegetables, delivered or eaten with the family, supports the local economy directly and saves cooking after a long beach day.
Plan around transport. If you are staying outside town without a car, evening dining needs a pre-booked taxi, so cooking more often may simply be easier. Budget for the higher cost of imported goods and balance it with local fish and produce, which are better value and fresher. A simple rule many long-stay visitors follow is to build meals around whatever the boats and roadside tables have that day, and to treat imported treats as occasional extras rather than the basis of the shopping list.
Frequently asked questions
Are there supermarkets on Carriacou?
Yes. Hillsborough has supermarkets and grocery shops stocking everyday essentials, and villages have small shops for basics. Choice is narrower than on Grenada's main island and depends on recent shipments, so buy what you need when you see it.
Where can you buy fresh fish on Carriacou?
Fish is often sold directly from boats or at the waterfront when the catch comes in, in Hillsborough, Windward and other coastal villages. Availability varies by day and season. Your host can usually tell you where and when to go.
Is tap water safe to drink in Carriacou rentals?
Many rentals use rainwater from cisterns, which may not be treated for drinking. Some provide filtered or bottled drinking water. Ask the host which water is safe to drink and follow their advice, boiling or filtering if needed.
Are groceries expensive on Carriacou?
Imported goods often cost more than on Grenada's main island, since they travel by boat. Local fish, fruit, vegetables and ground provisions are better value. Combining a main shop with local fresh produce keeps costs reasonable.
Are shops open on Sundays on Carriacou?
Many shops close or keep short hours on Sundays and public holidays. Do a larger shop on Saturday, and check with your host about which shops, if any, open on Sunday near your rental.
